Kathmandu: When Stephane MAICON first landed in Kathmandu, it was the Dashain time in Nepal. The first Dashain for him, therefore, was a completely strange experience. He first came to Nepal in September 2002, posted at the French Embassy in Kathmandu. “I was not aware that it was festival time. Within a day of arrival there was Dashain. But I did not know what it was,” he said. The first indication of Dashain for him was the sight of goats. “One morning I saw some goats at the front of the embassy gate. I was wondering what would be happening. Then I learned about the sacrifice. Then we had a puja on my car,” he recalled those first days. “My first view of Dashain was the view of the outsider. I was not feeling comfortable with open slaughtering and sacrifice of goats,” MAICON told Nepal Live Today.
Soon he found himself on this journey of discovering Nepali culture and developing appreciation for the festivals of Nepal. “I was discovering a new culture and new civilization and I was perfectly happy to discover the treasure of culture, civilization and beauty of Nepal,” he said recalling those first months. “I had a very pleasant time, wandering in the valley, discovering the city.”
Kirtipur, Bhaktapur, Nagarkot, Ichangu Narayan and Changu Narayan all looked so great to him.
What Stephane Maicon, who is currently the Deputy Chief of Mission of the Delegation of European Union to Nepal, misses are the greenery, open space and paddy fields which were in abundance 20 years ago. “The valley was dotted with paddy fields here and there. Urban settlements and paddy fields looked deeply linked with each other. It was possible to see small temples standing atop greenery or green fields around.”
MAICON made regular trips to Kirtipur, Bhaktapur, Basantapur and Nagarkot which, for him, was about meeting and witnessing traditional culture and architecture. “It was a great time for me to discover the Nepal Mandala,” he said.
Diplomats do not always get the opportunity to go back home during the festivals. So MAICON made it a point to celebrate Dashain in Khokana of Lalitpur, in Basantapur and Bhaktapur. In the process, he learned how the same rituals are performed differently in different places. He was impressed by the Asthamatrika Pooja in Khokana. “It was outstanding. The pujas and celebrations,” he said.
The more Stephane MAICON became a part of such celebrations, the more respect he developed for these cultural performances.
He saw that in Bhaktapur, Nava Durga was given more importance than Astamatrika. But in terms of masked dances, chanting of hymns and making a procession, the Nava Durga celebration was no different to Astamatrika.
The more Stephane MAICON became a part of such celebrations, the more respect he developed for these cultural performances. He would not miss such events. “My friend used to call me and say there is a puja and we have to go. I would then get ready early in the morning, drive my car and then either go to Bhaktapur or Lalitpur,” he said.
For him, his early years of Dashain were the times of great discovery of the whole of Kathmandu culture and its appreciation. “It was also about discovering the meanings of these festivals for different communities. Little by little, I started to celebrate and enjoy all ten days of Dashain.” The way people were so full of energy and excitement impressed him. “Dashain is about how life and culture mingle with each other and how each supports and strengthens the other,” he said.
He found Nepal different from what he had imagined. “For me Nepal was more like Tibet. I expected Kathmandu to look like Lomanthang for instance. I was not aware of these cultural performances. In the first two years, I got familiar with it.” Then he read books by French scholars where he came to know many things about the country and its culture.
MAICON sees the biggest importance of Dashain in helping to strengthen the family bond. “Coming home to meet parents from faraway places, getting the kids to their grandparents. I saw this as a wonderful occasion to strengthen the family bond,” he said.
The longer he stayed in Nepal, the more he developed a sense of appreciation for Nepal and Nepali culture including Dashain festivals. And he made it a point to celebrate it, rather than going on holidays during the vacation. “Most of my colleagues take this Dashain break as an opportunity to do small trekking, or some trip to Chitwan. But for me it was an opportunity to meet the people, welcome the new culture, and be a part of the celebration,” he said. “So, I never felt alone during Dashain though I was away from home and family. It was not a feeling of emptiness but it was a feeling of plentiness during Dashain in Nepal.”
Every year in Dashain, when MAICON finds himself in Kathmandu he makes it a point to participate in and observe these celebrations which not only give him joy but also enriches his understanding of “this beautiful country.”
For Maicon, another impressive side of Nepali culture is what he calls the intermingling of Buddhism and Hinduism. “When you go to Patan and when you visit some courtyards and see people performing cultural rituals you would not know if they are Buddhists or Hindus. Buddhism and Hinduism seem to be so blended in Nepal. Maybe 1000 years ago, there was division between these two faiths but you don’t see that division now. This is very good,” MAICON said.
He is also aware of the fact that the outsiders should not be judgmental. “When we as outsiders observe other cultures and cultural practices you have to forget your assumptions. And also try to understand why the way others are celebrating is different from your way,” he said. “When a man of one cultural background finds himself in a different culture, he finds himself in a dialogue between two cultures and he has an opportunity to understand a lot from this dialogue,” MAICON made a philosophical statement.
There are Dashain memories which MAICON fondly cherishes. The procession of Nawa Durga in Bhaktapur is one of them. “There they danced and they drank alcohol to get more Shakti. I miss this procession,” he said. Then he also remembers participating in a ritual meal. “I sat in the middle of the street and a gentleman brought me a piece of paper and spread it in front of me. Then they put food on it where I had to eat from.” This was a strange experience for him. “They kept adding food and you had to say ‘pugyo pugyo.’ I ate like everybody else ate.”
“When a man of one cultural background finds himself in a different culture, he finds himself in a dialogue between two cultures and he has an opportunity to understand a lot from this dialogue.”
This ceremony was considered a little bit of taboo and it was not possible to take photographs. “I actually tried to take photos for three years consecutively but every time, the camera was not working. Probably, Durga was not allowing me to trespass the border,” he said.
Another fond memory is about the procession in Khokana. For him, being in procession itself was a joy. “You could see Ganesh Himal. The ritual dances and singing. You have dancers and they push you up so that you remain in the air for a little bit. I had that experience,” he said, recalling the excitement.
Every year in Dashain, when MAICON finds himself in Kathmandu he makes it a point to participate in and observe these celebrations which not only give him joy but also enriches his understanding of “this beautiful country.”
Photos: Stephane MAICON
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